Skincare 101Dr Vicky Dondos is the oracle of skincare; the only person Clare relies on for consultations and effective facial treatments. Favouring a pared back, natural approach to skincare, Dr Dondos believes in educating her clients, personally treating over 2,000 clients a year in Medicetics, the clinic she co-founded with her husband in 2006.
As one of the UK’s ‘best skin-perfecting doctors’ (despite not believing in perfection herself), Clare asked Dr Dondos to share some of her knowledge to help us capitalise on this time at home and treat our skin to some much-needed TLC.
Lockdown has triggered many a call or remote consultation with my patients. More time at home means more time to reassess our skin and skincare regimes to ensure they’re really working for us.
Now is the perfect opportunity to learn about your skin and get a feel for how it responds to different ingredients. Carve out some protected ‘me time’ to spend on your routine and make a ritual out of it. Even when you’re feeling anxious or exhausted, it feels good to look after yourself. Slowing down in itself improves skin quality - many of my patients have noticed acne and redness improve over the last few weeks.
Here are my essential rules to looking after your skin:
1. Keep it simple Needing a thick, gloopy tub of rich moisturiser is an indicator that your skin barrier is in a less than optimal state, and your moisturiser is having to compensate. Your skin is meant to be a seal that prevents moisture from escaping and irritants from entry.
Weaning yourself off a complex regime (of often very expensive and highly endorsed over-the-counter products) can have a dramatic impact on the strength of your skin barrier. I often send patients home with a completely pared down regime to stick to for six weeks or longer before having treatments. Often, they don't even need those treatments when they return!
2. Do no harm
There are some systems with transformational results that can be modified and prescribed remotely (with some Zoom hand holding!). But even when using prescription-strength systems, I insist on a 'fallow period' - just letting your skin be - once function and appearance have been improved. It's a fine balance, stimulating the skin enough to repair and regenerate without over-sensitising or causing prolonged inflammation.
3. Be flexible
Learn to adjust your regimen. Your skin responds differently with changes to the season, diet, stress levels and so on.
4. Cleanse, cleanse, cleanseDuring a hydrafacial (our entry-level medical facial), we collect all the 'dirt' washed off your skin (make-up residue, pollution, products of your own metabolism). It's always shocking, however well you think you have been cleansing your skin! I usually focus on getting this step right before switching or investing in a moisturiser.
Julia Hunter is a super gentle but also highly effective cleaner, especially if you can leave it on for 30 seconds or more, or use it to massage your skin. I’d also recommend Epionce Lytic Cleanser for an exfoliating deep cleanse. It’s not for everyday use, but is wonderful for maintaining fresh skin between visits to the clinic
5. Protect with sunscreenDisappointing I know, but this really is still the elixir, the best thing you can do for your skin. Always use a separate sunscreen. There are so many multi-taskers available now (with anti-pollution ingredients, antioxidants and so on) that aren't white or sticky. I can recommend brands for clients, such as ELTA MD CLEAR (even patients with acne get on with this one) or Dermaquest Zinc Clear, but it’s a very personal decision - once you find one that feels good on your skin, stick with it. Apply as part of your morning routine every day, not only on sunny days.
6. Repair with Retinoids (NOT to be used if pregnant or breastfeeding) The gold standard ingredient, Retinoids stimulate new collagen and elastin production, improving blood flow to the skin and speeding up turnover of dead surface cells that dull and roughen the complexion. Go gently to minimise redness then build up as your skin acclimatizes: apply twice per week for two weeks first, then on alternate nights, then every night. You can combine your retinoid with your moisturizer if needed in the early days, although layering it over is better. Tretinoin is a good option, although this is prescription only. I also recommend Medik8 R-Retinoat as it’s easier to tolerate.
7. Exfoliate gentlyPeels and chemical exfoliants are gentler for most skin types than physical scrubs, and far more effective. Sensitive skins could start with a salicylic acid leave-on lotion like, a botanical, very gentle but effective product; even patients with rosacea tolerate this one. You won't feel any sensitivity or see any visible peeling, just smoother, fresher skin within one week of use. Julia Hunter Exfoliating Repair is a twice-weekly lactic acid mask and is my at-home 'pick-up' micropeel.
Don't overdo it though - if you want to take things further this is really when to consider visiting a clinic. Monthly hydrafacials have no downtime for most and need only very mild peeling (e.g. quickly applying an acid 'toner' 1-2 times per week) at home for maintenance.
8. Antioxidant serumVitamin C has the most evidence behind it - use it! This should be your most frequently used serum. Use it in the morning to support your sunscreen against pollution and UVB, and to help prevent and treat pigmentation as well as boost collagen.
Obagi Pro-C 15% is one of our bestsellers. I’d also recommend Tebiskin SOD-C, individual ampoules that you activate every 10 days - big bottles of vitamin C serum lose their effectiveness rapidly from the moment you open them.
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